Going to the highest point in town is something I love to do in my travels. I’ve taken cars, cable cars, trams, and elevators to the top — and of course I’ve walked. As we sailed into the Gibraltar harbor on October 20, that memory came to mind, acting as an inspiration to scale that high point, that point known as The Rock of Gibraltar.
My treks to the top started with drives up Colorado mountains. Elevators gave me access to the tall buildings in Chicago, Boston, and New York, and later in Nanjing and Dubai. Hikes up Colorado’s mountains were invigorating, and over mountain passes along the Camino Frances in Spain were life changing. Cable cars and trams gave me access to the high point in Grenoble, France, and in Hong Kong.
Still, walking is my most common way of “getting high” — one I treasure to this day.
Topping Gibraltar
There’s a couple onboard the Odyssey who walk and hike a lot, so I asked if I could join them hiking The Rock. They warmly welcomed me to join them. We had a date.
And then second thoughts started creeping in. Thoughts like “I’m so out of shape, I don’t want slow them down or hold them back.” And, “Maybe I’ll just stay on the ship, tomorrow.” And, “I could take the cable car to the top and explore from there.” I had about talked myself out of going up The Rock.
Mike, the husband of the couple, came after me as I was walking through the Morning Light Lounge that night to ask when I’d be ready to leave the next morning. Well, that cemented it for me: I was going with them. We decided to leave at 9:00 a.m., so off to bed I went.
There are a few ways to get to the top of The Rock: cable car, walk up the face, walk up the back. The cable car was out for us. The back looked easier, and lower, to me, and that’s the route Mike and Amy had in mind.
Ha! Ignorance can be bliss. The back was deceitfully short because of the perspective from the ground, and of course also the port. We climbed the Mediterranean Steps up, and up, and up.
I took breaks for water and a breath every so often. Sometimes I’d urge Amy to go on and I’d catch up. I chuckled at her response of wanting to keep us both in sight as her husband disappeared around the next bend. So much for keeping us both in sight!
Yes, we all made it.
The “Top” Isn’t Simple
It turns out that the south point of The Rock, at O’Hara’s Battery, is 1,398 feet high, while the central peak, Signal Hill — where the cable car goes — is “only” 1,270 feet high. A 122-foot difference, a difference that drained my energy. Attitude and weather conditions makes a big difference when scaling heights.
I know that from my walk over the O’Cebreiro Pass between Ponferrada and Sarria, in Galicia, Spain, along the Camino de Santiago. I started the day in wind and rain, plodding up the steepest section of the pass in the dark. My energy and joy diminished with each step. Fortunately for me my inner voice started telling me that I had to change my tune and lift my attitude. Just as each step before drained me, each step after I started cheerleading myself along, my spirits rose.
The prize at the top of O’Cebreiro was a café with the worst coffee of the Camino and packaged pastries — and a warm dry spot with fellow, wet pilgrims. That lifted my spirits the most! The prize at the top of The Rock was a variety of caves and tunnels, batteries from the many military battles fought here, a suspension bridge, and a church. I love the prizes the universe gives me.
Investigating O’Hara’s Battery gave us an appreciation for the advantage one gets by having the high point in war. Walking the suspension bridge was a non-event because it was so rigidly anchored to the rock: hardly a challenge! St Michael’s Cave was a beautiful cave decorated with pink and purple lights with white highlights. At one point the lights helped show “St Michael” by creating pink and purple wings and body, and a white head.
The WWII Tunnels were fascinating, and a work in progress. I decided to not explore those so went in as far as the bathrooms and then came out again. At the mouth of the tunnels was a man sanding a wooden, replica rifle that he’d salvaged from some dump. We talked about the gun and his work and, at about the time Mike and Amy surfaced, he offered to show us the portion of the tunnels where his other refurbished guns were displayed. According to Mike and Amy, that was the best part of the tunnels that they saw because it was more complete. Score!
Lessons Learned
Taking care of myself was a hard-learned lesson for me along the Camino. And it was well-learned. I took ample opportunities to take breaks along the climb up the south end of The Rock, and as we wandered up and down along the top going to the different sights. After the WWII Tunnels were the Siege Tunnels. Mike and Amy were rearing to go, and my body said No — loudly.
I encouraged them to go ahead as I enjoyed a picnic lunch of water, hard boiled egg, and an orange, and watched the various tourists enjoy the views of the Strait of Gibraltar and the airport, which is right alongside the port and town. Kids played on the various concrete surfaces. It was a beautiful afternoon.
When Mike and Amy returned we headed down Willis Road to Castle Steps. That put us on Main Street and an easy walk through town to the pier. Of course, as is my custom in as many foreign towns as I can, we stopped at a grocery store. I think you really get to know a place by shopping in its markets. That day’s purchases included ice cream bars for us and figs for me. Treating yourself after a big effort is uber smart. We won the uber-smart award that day. You know you have to sit to eat ice cream bars, don’t you? It was a sweet break, for all of us!
The Rock Walk has rekindled my love of hiking to the highest point. And refreshed my interest in getting into shape so I don’t hurt as badly as I did after that one. Now I walk more around the ship and through the towns we visit when we get to ports. I know that effort is paying off based on my walk up ramparts and steps in Old Town on Santiago Island in Cape Verde, Africa. Getting to see the old fort walls, the prison cells and cistern, as well as the school that trained priests and nuns, was worthwhile. Not being sore afterward was rewarding.
As we slowly approach South America with its tall mountains, I’m looking forward to scaling Machu Pichu in Peru, and Iguazu Falls at the border of Argentina and Brazil. Don’t worry, I’ll go to as many high points as I can in the Caribbean to get in better shape. And I’ll enjoy the sites along the way.
Last Updated November 10, 2024 Originally Published November 10, 2024- About the Author
- Latest Posts
What a wonderful objective to set for every one of the places you visit. Glad you were able to make it to the top of the Rock of Gibraltar, I wager that very few other Odyssey cruisers (if any) made it to the top. Enjoy the next stage in the Caribbean.
John, we have quite an adventurous group. Many made it to the top, even if by cable car. Fewer made it by foot. Exploring any way you can is the point, isn’t it? We all won with that. 🙂
As always, Kit, you continue to inspire us with your joyful appreciation of life and good advice. Thank you!
Thank you, Linda. It seems good to share what I can. Glad it serves.
I read Randy’s posts here and think, “That is so cool, wish I could do that someday.” I read Kit’s posts here and think, “I want to be there right now doing all this cool stuff!”
Thanks for sharing your adventures.
—
Hey! I’m right here yaknow! 😉 -rc
Live vicariously through us until you can join us — or start your own adventure. It’s a blast!
We do live vicariously through both of you. I know I’ll never see all these places in person (I’m not really into traveling) but seeing them through the eyes of regular people (vs. pro travel writers) is highly enjoyable & as close to actually being there as I’ll ever get. Thanks for all the wonderful writing & onwards to your next experiences & adventures.
You are most welcome, Mike. I hope you may visit a few of the locations we have and will visit. Cherry-pick after our first time around. 🙂
After what has happened here in the US this past week, I am ready to become a “citizen of the sea” — or anywhere else, really. Your posts just make me more determined to look into getting it going now.
—
The company just announced a new plan at a pretty good price point. Please tell them you were referred by Kit and Randy. -rc
James, follow your heart. See if the new plan works for you.
Bravo Kit…I was in Gibraltar on my first submarine in 1979 or so and went up to the top. One of my treasured mementos from that port visit was a rock I picked up…after about 500 or so it seemed rocks I picked up there was about the size of an onion shaped exactly like the Rock. I’m sure you remember the old TV commercials about “Get a piece of the Rock” for Prudential insurance and having my very own Piece of the Rock I really enjoyed…and the piece is still in our curio cabinet at home.
That’s really cool, Neil. I thought about picking up a rock as a memento (partially because of that commercial) and then reconsidered because of the size of our home.
I do still have the rock I picked up on the Camino after Cruz Ferro. Some things are meant to be.
“Strait of Gibraltar” — sorry, lifelong editor. I’m reading every post and hope there’s a book coming!
—
Good catch. I’m her editor, and missed that one! “We’ll see” on a book. 🙂 -rc
I’m envious as always. We didn’t have enough time in Gibraltar — it was a short day and we had a tour scheduled — so did not make it to the top. That’s one of my biggest regrets of that cruise.
—
Ah well. You’ll have to go back! -rc
Bravo Kit!!!
“I love the prizes the universe gives me!”. (Rene’, my husband, and I are avid hikers…and we have a grand fondness of this sentiment!)
The more we get to read from you & Randy, the more excited we are to join. Looking forward to meeting you on Segment 7.
There are quite a few hikers onboard. And that number will undoubtedly grow! Start your research on the hikes we’ll take.
Another well-crafted, thoughtful and inspiring article. I had a very similar experience in Gibraltar when I was there in 2023. Thanks Kit!
I shouldn’t be surprised you found your way to the top — and back! Maybe you can suggest other places in the world I can take a bit of a hike. 🙂
—
You can ask me too. 😆 -rc
Fantastic. 💕
I am envious.
Thanks for following along, Tom. It’s always good to have you around.
I am really enjoying both of your adventures. I also like to get to the tallest place in an area, though I usually don’t make the time like you do. I also would have walked it if I had the time. After all, sometimes the best part is the journey to wherever. Being a history buff, especially military history, I would definitely done the Siege Tunnels tour. Since I also enjoy show caves, that would have been great too. I am going to have to add Gibraltar to my bucket list.
Gibraltor was made for you! With the heights, the caves, and the tunnels you could spend all day there. I’m glad you’ve added to your bucket list because of this little tale. Having challenges ahead of us keeps us vibrant!
Beautifully written, Kit! Love the comparison of all the hights you’ve conquered! Great reinforcement in self cheerleading! After all we are the best cheer leaders to ourselves!
Oh, I hadn’t even looked at my story from that perspective. Thanks for reflecting that back to me.
One height I didn’t bring in, so will mention here, was walking along the Great Wall — twice. One I didn’t walk up to it, but once I got to the top, walking along it was an experience — Badaling. The other involved a cable car to the top, and then following the top as it climbed and dipped its way along was lovely — Mitianyu. Remember these? I sure wish you still organized trips in China.
I have climbed the Great Wall at Badaling also. How does that compare to the Rock of Gibraltar climb? I was 35 years old when I climbed the Great Wall. Now I’m 61 years old and exercise rarely. I doubt that I could make the Great Wall climb now.
A bus took us to the base of the wall and we scaled from there. Badaling was much easier than Gibraltar.
I’m interested in your purchase of an ‘Ice cream bar’. It sounds strange to this Englishwoman. Do you mean something like a Magnum? I think we’d refer to it as a choc ice on a stick? Or was it simply a choc ice (small slab of ice cream covered in chocolate)?
We bought a vanilla ice cream on a stick and coated with chocolate.
We speak the same language yet can’t communicate. 😀 It’s fun to learn the different ways English speakers speak.
Well done hiking up to the top! It’s some climb! We took the cable car when we visited, but did see a few intrepid explorers hiking up. We really enjoyed Gibraltar, fascinating place to visit.
Love reading about your adventures, thank you for sharing them so eloquently.
Yay getting to the top, Karen! The views from the top are beautiful, and the attractions at the top are fascinating.
Thanks for your kind words. Stay tuned for more!
Your mention of almost talking yourself out of the hike reminds me of when I got the opportunity to go on a class trip to France in 2006. Part of our tour involved a trip to the observation platform on the Eiffel Tower. I had been excited about it since we started planning the trip — between the 1/3 scale replica at the local amusement park and the sequence in the 1998 animated version of Anastasia, I always wanted to see that view — but when we actually got there and saw the lines, our tour guide blithely informed us that the guards were “really good at packing people in” to get as many people to the top as quickly as possible, and anxiety reared its ugly head in the form of a long-suffered and recently-diagnosed crowd phobia. I said I couldn’t do it.
I’ll never forget the look on my French teacher’s husband’s face as he told me he knew I would regret not going up there, and that he would help me, even promising that if I got up there and couldn’t handle the height I could come straight down. When I said it wasn’t the height I had a problem with, but the being trapped in a crowd on the elevator, he said he could help me with that, too. And he did! Somehow he managed to maneuver us in the line so that we just missed the cutoff for one elevator and were the first to board the next one, then steered me into the corner, told me to put my back against it, and stood about a foot or so away from me with his arms outspread, keeping anyone from getting so close to me that I couldn’t see the floor in front of me.
He was right. I would have regretted not seeing that view for the rest of my life. Sometimes we all need another person to help us get to those high points.
You’re definitely inspiring me to get my walking on, too! I want to be able to go to all the high places, and I know I’ll enjoy it more if I can get to as many as possible under my own steam.
—
Your teacher’s husband was awesome! -rc
Ollie, I’m rooting for you to do more “impossible” things with the reminder of how possible that can be when you figure out a way to do them. You’ve got this! And you know, there will be more people in your life like your teacher’s husband who will help you out.
Hi guys, loved the Gibraltar tour. It brought back many good memories for me, including eating Xmas Dinner outside at 75°F.
My Battery (Royal Artillery) was sent there shortly after we had returned from the Falklands War. We devised a route around the Rock that was just short of 10 miles and used to run it every morning before breakfast just to annoy the RAF guys haha.
It was fascinating to explore the whole place — battlement, various guns still in situ — including the downward firing artillery piece. I was lucky enough to go with a military guide exploring deep beneath the Rock. This was not a tourist attraction and we descended about 3/4 mile and near the bottom we had to cross a deep pool via a boat.
It was also rumoured that the Main Street had 365+ bars so we made it a mission to have a beer in each during the time we were stationed there. Sadly we never got to fully complete this as we were pulled out after 5 months and sent back to the UK.
So thank you for the memory jog, and look forward to more of your adventures.
—
Fascinating about the non-public cave areas, especially the boat. It wasn’t piloted by a guy named Charon, was it? 😉 -rc
Ian, what a thrill you must have had exploring the entire Rock. I’m kinda jealous I didn’t get to do the depth of the Rock, but then I was too tired to explore what was open to us at the top. I’m guessing that the Rock — and the town too — is a bit different today than it was in 1982/83.
I’ll see what adventures I can complete and share to keep your memories flowing.
There’s something incredibly liberating about being at the top of a mountain, it’s so therapeutic!
“The choices we make lead up to actual experiences. It is one thing to decide to climb a mountain. It is quite another to be on top of it.”
—Herbert A. Simon
Loving following you on this journey, and look forward to the next adventure.
Thank you for sharing it with us Kit x
There are many aspects of getting to the top of a mountain that are therapeutic. And your shared quote gives me food for thought on my walk around the ship today.
In many ways, you’ve been on this adventure with me since almost the beginning. Your inn, aptly named for this shared experience, was the beginning of great things to come.
Come on along. Let’s see where else was can go!
—
I have to fill readers in! Kit stayed at Cathy’s inn, The Rocks B&B(!!), on the first night of her “Ireno” walk in September, and is even pictured on that page. -rc
Oh don’t you worry we’re following along!! ❤
Reading this and the Comments kept reminding me of the part about crossing the equator in a ocean-going college program called Semester at Sea in the book by Rachel Louise Snyder, WOMEN WE BURIED, WOMEN WE BURNED. She describes the incredible experience of seeing dawn breaking while far out at sea, and her feelings about crossing the equator.
It’s interesting to see what memories are opened by random articles. Thanks for sharing, Warren.
We had some similar ‘peaks’ in Vietnam! And I couldn’t agree with you more, grocery stores are the best way to learn about a town, culture, and people!
I wonder what our grocery stores tell visitors about us. That’s something to contemplate. 🙂 I hope you scaled those peaks and brought stories back.
Drug stores can be interesting, too! I remember shopping for tampons in New Zealand, and finding some non-applicator ones in little flip-top cardboard containers like cigarettes sometimes come in. How sensible! Attractive print, too, so you could keep them in your pocket or purse and they wouldn’t be obtrusive.
We found the pharmacies to be a totally different game from what we are used to in the States. That’s one reason travel is so valuable — you learn different ways of living.
We used to have them in the States too. The large package came with handy little pink case that came as an extra and held four compressed tampons that could easily be carried in a purse or pocket. Since I am waaaaaaaay past menopause, I don’t remember the name or if they are still available.
Oh, interesting! I don’t remember ever seeing them. It’s been quite a while for me, too.
Very cool. I’ve been past Gibraltar but never stopped there. Sounds like a grand time.
I hope you have a chance to stop in Gibraltar sometime, Bruce. It’s a cool city/town.
Keep fit for Cape Town – we have some nice challenges waiting for you here! I’ll never forget my first visit to Cape Point at the tip of the Peninsula. You approach it up a steep hill and when you’re at the top and look south you realise there is no more land between you and the frozen wastes of Antarctica. It’s a strange feeling.
That Point sounds amazing! The approach sounds similar to The Rock and to many challenging hikes I’ve had. So, it’s not a matter of keeping fit, it’s a matter of getting fit. I’m looking forward to scaling Cape Point in a few years.
What adventures! Do you have a tour operator booked to take you to Macchu Pichu?
Yes, Susan, I do. I’m excited by the tour she’s set up for us!
“Raring to go” — sorry! This was an amazing look into a place many of us will never get to go. Thank you so much!
—
Nothing to be sorry about! -rc
It tickles me you loved it so much. Your enthusiasm is contagious. Thank you.