Ports of Call: Getting Our Sea Legs

Editor’s Note: We have a new columnist! We met Marti Eicholz on our way across the Atlantic in April before cooling our heels for four months in Belfast. We quickly became friends, and once we got going she started to write for her friends about the interesting ports we were visiting. I asked Marti if we could give her evocative writing a larger audience, and I was pleased she said yes.

I expect to have a new roundup from her every 10 days or so.

Marti likes to experience, to be; she doesn’t take photos. I’ll be illustrating these compilations with some of the 2-minute videos made by Villa Vie at many of our stops. Enjoy! —Randy Cassingham

Leaving Land

September 30

Sitting in the lobby of Leonardo Hotel, waiting for my taxi to transport me and my luggage to the Cruise Terminal…it is time to board Villa Vie Odyssey, my new home.

Pausing to reflect on the past 136 days in Belfast, nicknamed Linenopolis, to which 118 days were spent at the Leonardo.

I extend my sincerest gratitude to the people of Belfast. Predominately blue or green eyed, mostly brown or reddish hair with fair skin and some with freckles are the most friendly and welcoming people on the planet.

They greet you with jovial jokes, warm welcomes, and usually a cup of tea and a biscuit.

No word can describe these easy going, good-natured sweethearts.

What do you talk about? A good topic of conversation is the weather. There is always something remarkable to say …or something to complain about.

These people have faced adversity but show a resilience and an adaptability to overcome.

I will miss my Belfast friends. As I turn to leave, goodbye is too final. But a wave and “see you in three years” seems just right.

Basque Country

October 10

Spent two days in Bilbao, Spain, famous for the iconic Guggenheim Museum.

Enjoyed the splendor of the architecture and contemporary art collection.

Walked the quaint atmosphere of narrow streets and cider taverns.

Strolled charming old town, a once whaling and fishing quarter with remains of Roman times, Roman walls and baths.

Sampled Basque cuisine, delicious stews made with tuna and potatoes or lamb. Pintxos, Basque tapas (small snacks), consisting of several foods, meat, fresh seafood, olives, peppers several on top of bread were favorites.

Lunched on the most famous dish, paella.

Sheltered in Gijon for two days as the remnants of Hurricane Kirk swept Western Europe.

Observed and felt the rain each day, reminding me of Belfast.

Falling in love with my Life.

A Gentle, Smooth Glide

October 14

Night-time sail towards Cadiz, Spain.

A morning arrival greeted us with cloudy skies — and 97% humidity.

Cadiz is located in the southwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula, perched on a slender peninsula that juts into the Gulf of Cadiz, a wide inlet of the Atlantic Ocean.

Archaeological remains founded by the Phoenicians dates this ancient gem 3,100 years, making it one of the oldest inhabited cities in Western Europe.

Christopher Columbus’s second voyage to the New World began from Cadiz.

On arrival I felt as though I’d been transported back in time, feeling the vibrant history steeped in the noticeable Phoenician, Roman, Moorish influences and more than 100 watchtowers.

This seaside city is small (4.67 sq. miles and a population of 115,000). Intimate, Friendly, Historic, Undiscovered, Authentic, Walkable.

Cadiz presents a treasure trove of things to do.

Embarked on a morning walk through the narrow streets of old town where the ancient walls whisper tales of bygone eras.

Dark clouds hovered and rain peppered everyone.

Back to the ship and lunch. I enjoyed the quesadilla, simple with lettuce, salsa, cheese, guacamole, and chicken. Splurged with a custard treat.

By 2:00 p.m. the clouds had cleared, the rain drops had stopped and the sun brighten everyone’s spirits.

An afternoon stroll along the magnificent seafront promenade while admiring the golden dome of the Cathedral gleaming against the azure sky.

The grand Cathedral, an architectural marvel, took 116 years to complete and dominates the skyline.

This promenade was a welcome break from the streets of old town. The sea and natural beauty is on one side and a park, featuring diverse plant life, artistic landscaping, shaded paths, a duck pond with a waterfall and an unique grotto on the other side. A tranquil botanical haven!

A tip: Before any stroll, grab scoops of a sumptuous gelato. They are easy to hold and so creamy and luscious.

Some of our family brought their bikes on board. Cycling is a great way to explore Cadiz. Going with a group a guide taught them all about Cadiz and its history.

The culinary scene is a feast for the senses. Being a coastal city, seafood is at the forefront…fresh catch to delectable tapas.

Several decided to explore Mercado Central, a hidden gem. This famous indoor food market located in the historic area of the city showcases a diverse array of fresh seafood, fruits, meats and dining spots for the adventurous eater. So, these adventurous ones embarked on an exciting journey, indulging in squid, sea snails, slow cooked oxtail and partridge casserole. A few went beaching.

Museums are closed on Mondays so that limited some choice.

Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, a beach lover, or an adventure seeker, Cadiz promises to enchant and inspire.

During dinner and sunset we set sail for Seville, Spain.

Seville is 70 Miles Inland

October 16

Making way toward Seville, Spain, we sailed into the mighty Guadalquiver, Spain’s busiest river and docking in the heart of one of the most stunning places, Seville. Larger ships are unable to do this.

Seville welcomed us with cloudy skies and 100% chance of rain.

No amount of rain was going to dampen my spirit. There are a host of wonderful things to do and see.

On a beautiful day, one would walk (Seville is a city built for walking: traffic-free cobbled streets, riverside promenade, parks and squares), bike or take a horse carriage.

My choice was a driver.

Quickly it became crystal clear why Seville is celebrated for its beauty. Roses bloom year around. Gardens are fragrant with palms, olives and orange trees. Moorish fountains adorn patios and plazas.

Seville holds the record for the largest number of orange trees — 25,000 plus. The flowers and the oranges are used to make perfumes, essential oils, cakes, liquors and chocolate. These oranges are the main ingredient in the bitter orange marmalade.

The orange: delicious on the eye, terribly bitter on the tongue. My driver stopped for a sample of orange wine, a mix of sweet wine and orange peel…a suggested souvenir.

The smell of orange blossoms wafting into my nose gave me the feeling, “I’ve arrived somewhere special.”

The Medieval Jewish Quarter, a quaint neighborhood is the heart of Seville. It would be a most desirable place to walk…not today. Got peeks and glimpses of a maze of winding cobbled streets, decorated balconies, picturesque squares, and hand-painted ceramics flower pots scattered around.

Extra smooth sounds of the Spanish guitar could be heard in the distance. Both guitar and accordion players play songs that serenade your soul.

Seville is an exotic old city reverberating with history, culture and passion. Seville is a lively city. It’s the heart of Flamenco, an amazing art created by Roma in Spain. The flamenco atmosphere is seen and felt on street corners, tablaos (places where Flamenco shows are held), and bars.

Flamenco is music, singing, dancing, and emotion: big, bold and fully human indulging in the sensual and aggressive tensions of courtship.

Top on the list for me to see:

The Cathedral and Giralda, an epic historical landmark, the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world. No tickets were available. Sold out. Missed walking up 35 ramps.

So, I lingered with a Cafe Latte amongst an air ripe with the fragrance of orange blossoms and contemplated the rich history oozing from the grandness of it all.

Suddenly the strain of a flamenco guitar was heard and all was magical.

The Real Alcazar Palace, initially a 14 century Moorish fortress, is the oldest Royal Palace still being used by the royal family. An incredible sight: pretty courtyards, colorful tiles, tall palms, fountains, exotic gardens — even peacocks roaming the patio. Opulent!

Time to Eat

Lunch on the ship: 12-2. Lunch in Seville: 2-4 … Lunch is the largest meal of the day… A 3 course affair…A celebration…concluding with sherry wine.

Dinner on the ship: 6:30-9:00. Dinner in Seville: 9:00-11:00…Lighter options: Salads in the summer, warm soups in the winter, omelettes or eggs year around.

The most eaten food is Paella, a Spanish Rice Delight.

Seville is a foodie’s paradise with influences from Africa, Middle East and Caribbean. Several favorites that got me all fired up were Creamy Tomato Soup, Lentil Soup with Chorizo, sauteed carrots, a simple dish with deep roots, Gazpacho, a hearty blend of a garden’s worth of veggies, a zesty concoction similar to vegetable juice.

Today, I enjoyed a light delicate carrot soup and a spicy fish cake. Yum!

Everyone likes tapas. To satisfy this craving, many went Tapas Hopping with a Guide…a Tasting Tapas Treat. They didn’t show up for dinner so, haven’t heard their stories.

As we prepare to sail down the river, we leave an exotic old city that pulsates with vibrant life:

How do people describe Seville?
Exquisite
The Soul of Spain
A Living Museum
Magical, Captivating
Passionate (Feel emotions strongly)
The Birthplace of Tapas

Seville has a history that speaks to you and transports you back in time.

It’s 6:00. The ship’s engines are roaring. We are sailing down the river toward our next port, Tangier.

 Last Updated October 30, 2024 Originally Published October 30, 2024

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Marti Eicholz

Marti is a retired Ph.D of Education & Counseling from California, and is planning to live for the rest of her life as a Resident of the Villa Vie Odyssey. She writes a monthly column for Residential Cruising about our travels. “My writing is for me and for others like me who want to find a newer, better, gentler version of themselves. As we travel together, stories will unfold.”

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• Ports of Call: Getting Our Sea Legs