Editor’s Note: We aren’t always in port: we need time to get to the next port, which can take a day …or more. As you’ll see in a minute, that’s not boring for us, but rather a welcome time of rest. But first, we popped back up to Spain to pick up spare parts before touching the African continent again. -rc
Malaga, Spain
October 22
After an effortless nighttime cruise, our ship docked in Malaga, a beautiful city with a little bit of everything for their over-half-million residents. Malaga is on the sunshine coast, Costa del Sol, and bordered by sandy yellow beaches and a smooth blue sea.
Take a journey through historic old town, the heart and soul of the city. Travel its pretty maze of little streets: cobblestones and car free, full of life going in all directions. Shops of all kinds: cafes, terraces, tapas, vino bars, and Tuscon shops (a sweet specialty based on almonds).
In the north-western part of the historic center there are lots of little restaurants, interesting shops and also, a kind of social and cultural center in an old house where young people meet for a concert, a drink, and talk politics or ecology.
Not far away are two massive hilltop citadels. The Alcazaba del Malaga, an impressive fortress sitting on a hill overlooking the city, built in the 11th century. The architecture is beautiful: Moorish archways, tilework and gardens filled with fountains, orange trees, palms and the smell of jasmine. It offers spectacular views of the city and it’s a beautiful serene place to spend hours away from hustle and bustle.
And The Castillo de Gibralfaro (18th century), built to house troops and protect Alcazaba fortress. It’s higher than Alcazaba, dominating the city from the top of the hill and giving one a birdseye view of the bull arena and other monuments. These are the best preserved remains of the Muslim period in Spain.
Even if you are not very churchy, you must take a look at the impressive Malaga Cathedral, a magnificent Renaissance building. It is more reminiscent of a place than a religious building…soft domed shapes, dusty pink stone and surrounded by palm trees.
The inside of this monument will blow your mind. The dimensions of the hall are simply impressive and richly decorated with huge works of art. To me, the most beautiful are the two huge organs that rise on either side of the Hall.
Due to the lack of financial resources, the Cathedral has only one bell tower (most have two). The locals call it “the one armed lady.” The best is: climb 200 steps to the roof top and view the city and admire the domes.
Another top thing to do: visit the Picasso Museum. Picasso was born in Malaga, and 150 different artworks of his are on display.
The Malaga Museum of Art features an archeological exhibit.
The Atarazenas Market is a great place to eat. Remember it closes at 2 p.m. During the Muslim period of the city, this building was a shipyard where boats were built and repaired. Part of Malaga was under water and the shipyard was on the seafront. With the arrival of the Christians, the yard fell into disuse. It was revived at the end of the 19th century and became a food market.
Malaga Park, a perfect place to stroll and enjoy plants, water features, and flowers. Among the trees, you’ll see colorful birds and bright green parakeets.
As darkness falls, Malaga and its pedestrian streets become more charming, lights twinkle on historic monuments, beautifully illuminating, making the evening glow.
We sail at 9 for a night and day at sea.
A Sea Day
October 23
A day spent solely on the sea.
The ship doesn’t make any stops,
Simply sails the sea,
Making its way to our next port.
Cruising comfortably,
Gentle movements make for a restful sleep,
Waking to a host of activities awaiting my participation,
How do I choose?
Feeling the gentle swing of the ship is lovely.
Pampering myself,
Slowing down,
Breathing the ocean air,
Reviewing where I’ve been,
Organizing my thoughts,
Sitting by the window,
Gazing at a beautiful sea,
Realizing Sea Days are anything but boring.
“The ship is my oyster.”
Docking in Casablanca, Morocco in a few hours.
Casablanca
October 24, 2024
The Odyssey docked in Casablanca (locals call it “Casa”) with a bustling population of 3.5 million, making it the largest city in Morocco.
It is often described as: A cultural capital. An ultra-modern city, after assembling a team consisting of an urban planner, a gardener, and an industrialist, focusing on modernization, expansion with new infrastructure. The economic heartbeat in the region. An industrial home to large international companies like McDonalds and Starbucks.
The city’s architecture is unique. With modernization, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and influences of France, North Africa and the U.S. were blended with the traditional Islamic, Moorish and Roman influences.
Being true to its name, every building is painted white, making it a gleaming metropolis.
It’s remarkably “authentic” with less aggression, making the whole experience pleasant. This old city we see today was constructed in the 18th century after a devastating earthquake, so not much of the Roman Anfa 15 BC survived.
Hidden within the narrow lanes of the Medina is a good collection of landmarks, such as places of worship for all Abrahamic religions: synagogues, churches, and mosques.
It is a perfect place to watch everyday life in action. It felt lived in. It felt “homey.”
Contemporary murals added a dose of youthful vitality.
An essential place to visit is The Hassan II Mosque, a symbol of the city. It is the largest mosque in Morocco and has the second highest minaret in the world. It sets on an outcrop, jutting over the ocean.
This waterfront location has a special religious meaning in Islam (a meeting point… “God and Mortals”). One word describes this vast edifice: Opulent.
Hand-craved wood and stone, marble flooring, ceilings with gold leaf, and walls with colorful tiles. Non-Muslims can visit — at a fee and with a guide. Capacity of 25,000 in the interior plus 80,000 in the exterior courtyard.
Part of the flooring is made of glass so worshippers can pray to Allah while contemplating the ocean.
Stroll along the La Corniche, a lovely promenade along the Atlantic and contemplate the important religious landmark in all its magnitude.
“Casa” has no shortness of shopping or department stores. The Morocco Mall is upscale shopping with 350 shops of luxury items. A perfect place for shopping addicts. In another area The Souk still survives with traditional items such as: slippers, kaftans, spices and oils…. This area, also, boasts of the largest musical fountain in the world, 100 colorful jets that move to the rhythm of the music.
Mohammed V Square, often called “Pigeons Square”, is a busy plaza filled with an abundance of birds and young families.
A few blocks away is Arab League Park, called the green lung of Casablanca. Rows of manicured palm trees and reflective pools, make a great place to find peace and quiet in a bustling city.
As we leave, I agree with Ingrid Bergman when she said, “I feel that Casablanca has a life of its own…And it’s Mystical.”
We have two days at sea ahead.
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“Travel its pretty maze of little streets: cobblestones and car free, full of life going in all directions”
When we visited Mykonos (Greek island) earlier this year, the narrow twisty streets were described as an anti-piracy measure — it made it more difficult to invade and sack the town. Easy to get lost in, however.
I wonder if the same thinking was in place with the design of Malaga?
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It certainly wouldn’t be surprising. -rc
I couldn’t help but think of black and white and red all over when I saw the photo of Newspaper Man. Marti, you wore the perfect outfit!
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I’ve updated that photo caption to make it clear it’s Kit, not Marti. -rc