Editor’s Notes: OK, sorry: it is getting ridiculous how far behind I’m getting as Marti keeps writing. What can I say: living aboard a cruise ship is not just interesting, it can be quite a busy lifestyle! Not to mention I have a full-time job that simply has to get priority since that’s what pays the bills. I’ll continue to catch up as I can. -rc
The Equator
December 20, 2024
After leaving Panama and continuing south toward Ecuador, we crossed the equator. The equator, of course, crosses through Ecuador — the Spanish word for “equator”.
Ship personnel announced that there would be an “equator crossing ceremony,” a King Neptune ceremony. The ceremony is rather bizarre: a big, cheesy story about King Neptune and initiation of some sort.
Pollywogs, those sailors who are crossing for the first time, were ceremoniously christened via kissing a fish and having water poured over their heads to welcome them to the Shellback side. Shellbacks are those who have previously sailed across the equator. Captain Val gave tribute to Neptune.
The Odyssey, making its maiden line-crossing, was awarded an “Equator Crossing Certificate”.
I wonder: if one doesn’t kiss the fish, does that mean you haven’t crossed the equator? Confusing!
What is special about being on the equator?
The rotation of the earth away and toward the sun is what causes day and night. The countries that are located on the equator experience 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness every single day of the year! For people who live in these countries, there is no real change in seasons.
The Equator passes through Ecuador and 12 other countries, half of which rank among the poorest in the world.
All the countries through which the equator passes have, by definition, a tropical climate, characterized by high temperatures and high humidity. There are two seasons in the tropics: the wet season (when the rain comes, May to October) and the dry season (when the rains stay away, November to April).
Manta, Equador
December 21-22, 2024
Late morning of the 21st of December, we arrived in Manta, Ecuador, a mid-size, bustling city with more than 300,000 inhabitants, referred to as la Puerta del Pacífico (the Door of the Pacific).
Thousands work in the vibrant fishing industry which drives Manta’s economy. Manta is one of the world’s top tuna fishing ports, earning it the nickname of “Tuna Capital of the World”, exporting to Europe, Asia and the United States, thus making it one of the main ports for the Ecuadorian economy.
Due to its strategic geographical position, Manta’s inhabitants enjoy a perfect climate, as well as its modernity, traditions, and of course the quality of its people.
The people of Manta say, “Beach Life is The Best Life”. This growing and thriving city located on the beautiful coast of Ecuador is known for some amazing beaches, beautiful and diverse, offering you popular public beaches to more remote beaches whereby yours are the only footprints in the sand.
Beachgoers will find paradise at Playa El Murciélago, a lively urban stretch of beach known for its soft sands, clear waters, and vibrant atmosphere. It is ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and beach sports. The beach’s boardwalk hosts a variety of restaurants and bars, perfect for sampling local specialties such as ceviche while enjoying ocean views.
La Tarqui Beach, a laid-back stretch, offers a relaxed tranquil atmosphere, along with seafood shacks.
San Lorenzo is a hidden surfing gem with some of the best and most powerful waves on the Ecuador’s coast, drawing international surfers for both fun and competition.
Seven plus miles away from Manta is a nice town called Montecristi. It is famous for its artisanal handicrafts, like the well-known Panama hats (which are not made in Panama!), and typical dresses and shirts.
For art lovers, the Museo Centro Cultural Manta offers a glimpse into the area’s historical and artistic heritage. Exhibits showcase traditional ceramics and textiles, providing a deep insight into the indigenous cultures that have shaped Manta over the centuries.
For those interested in history and local culture, the Museo del Banco Central offers insights into pre-Columbian relics and modern Ecuadorian art.
Nature enthusiasts can explore the diverse Machalilla National Park, a spectacular coastal park offering stunning coastal views, hiking trails and wildlife encounters. Isla de la Plata is often referred to as a mini-Galápagos, with wildlife such as blue-footed boobies and sea lions. This park offers a peek into the region’s unique ecosystems. It is also home to an extraordinary variety of animal life, including howler monkeys, iguanas, and exotic bird species, particularly blue-footed boobies that attract birdwatchers from around the world.
Culinary enthusiasts will find Manta an absolute delight with its plethora of seafood offerings. Manta’s food scene is rich in flavors and resonates with the vibrant spirit of its people.
Manta serves as an excellent place for discovering authentic Ecuadorian handicrafts and coastal souvenirs. Its markets brim with colorful merchandise, from Panama hats to local art.
A walking tour through Manta’s shopping districts will reveal an array of boutiques and small shops selling unique items that reflect Ecuador’s rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship.
Manta is a gateway to some of Ecuador’s most fascinating biodiversity. Marine life is particularly rich here due to the proximity of the great Pacific, making it a vibrant spot for marine exploration.
The coastal and oceanic environments around Manta are part of the larger Ecuadorian efforts to conserve nature and wildlife.
Manta has a population that predominantly practices Roman Catholicism, which is deeply rooted in the country’s history and cultural traditions. There is a growing diversity of religious beliefs in Manta. Evangelical Protestantism is another significant presence, with evangelical churches actively participating in community affairs and offering various social and educational programs. Despite differences in doctrine, these groups coexist peacefully, with religious tolerance being a notable feature of Manta’s social fabric.
The nightlife in Manta is a lively showcase of local culture where energetic music and dances characterize the evenings. Energetic bars and lively nightclubs pump out rhythms of salsa, reggae, and more.
The tone on the ship is a little mixture of celebratory, sentimental, nostalgic, and exploratory, making room for new and unexpected people and places appearing every day. Living aboard ship brings lots of surprises.
On the Odyssey one can allow things to happen rather than sticking to a rigid itinerary. Some of the ship family took off 5 days for birding into the Andes Mountains. Another group left the ship for a several day visit to the Galapagos.
As we leave Manta, Ecuador, our ship sparkles with holiday joy.
After a day at sea, we will dock in Puerto Bolivar, Ecuador.
Puerto Bolivar, Ecuador
December 23-24, 2024
It’s a festive time of year on the Odyssey, treating the season as a blank page, writing whatever new “traditions” bring us real joy, slowing down and savoring having both feet in the present moment and place, cherishing each other, and enjoying the gingerbread cookies. A bit of weirdness and silliness is going on, like trying to find the elf that is missing, and all the rubber duckies floating around. Oh, yes, and painting toenails red and green, for port and starboard.
The Odyssey arrived in Puerto Bolivar, Ecuador, a small port town and an urban parish located on the Pacific coast part of the municipality of Machala (a larger city close to Puerto Bolivar) in the province of El Oro. It is known for being one of the largest fishing ports in the country, and a major hub for exporting of shrimp worldwide. Located in the fertile lowlands near the Gulf of Guayaquil, Machala is said to be the banana capital of the world. Coffee and cacao are also important crops in the surrounding farmlands.
El Morro is a historic lighthouse located at the entrance of the harbor. Climb to the top of the lighthouse for stunning views of the ocean and the harbor.
The cathedral is impressive, and the church of Nuestra Señora de Chilla has an impressive depiction of the Virgin and child bedecked in golden finery, attended by a dog and a goat.
Puerto Bolivar is surrounded by beautiful beaches and opportunities for water sports. Playa de Oro is a beautiful golden sand beach located just outside of Puerto Bolívar.
Playa de los Frailes is one of the most beautiful and secluded beaches in Ecuador. Swim in the crystal-clear waters, sunbathe on the pristine sand, or go snorkeling to see the colorful marine life. Paseo del Mar is a scenic boardwalk that runs along the beach and offers stunning views of the ocean.
Museo de la Concha y el Caracol features a large collection of shells and seashells from Ecuador and around the world. Learn about the different types of shells and their ecological importance.
Parque Nacional Machalilla is a large national park located south of Puerto Bolívar. The park features several beautiful beaches, hiking trails, and wildlife viewing opportunities.
La Chocolatera is the westernmost point of Ecuador and South America. Hike to the top of the cliffs to see the panoramic views of the ocean and the coastline.
Typical foods of Puerto Bolivar Ecuador include:
- Ceviche de conchas: a popular seafood dish in Ecuador made with raw or cooked fish, shrimp, or in this case, conchas (clams). They are marinated in lime juice and mixed with onions, cilantro, and tomato.
- Churrasco: a delicious grilled beef steak served with rice, beans, fries, and egg.
- Arroz con menestra y carne asada: a typical Ecuadorian dish consisting of rice accompanied with menestra, a bean sauce, and grilled beef.
- Empanadas de verde: made with a mix of mashed green plantains and stuffed with cheese, chicken or meat. They are then fried to a crispy golden perfection.
Then…
It’s Christmas Eve,
Looking up at the night sky,
Becoming a velvet cloak studded with shimmering diamonds,
Flashing and twinkling,
Telling ancient stories,
Trying to get us to notice,
Hovering over a vast and beautiful ocean,
Covering 70% of the Earth’s surface,
Stirring the heart,
Inspiring the imagination,
Bringing eternal joy to the soul.
May your holiday be wrapped in joy, tied with laughter and adorned with love.
Our ship sails and Christmas morning we will awaken in Guayaquil, Ecuador ready to celebrate ‘Cruisemas’.
Whatever you do, wherever you go, whoever you see, have a magical day.
Guayaquil, Equador
December 25-27, 2024
Merrily and brightly, we celebrate the beauty of this Christmas Day,
‘Cruisemas’,
Filling the air with sweetness,
Wishing you love, laughter and all things wonderful.
The Odyssey sails into Ecuador’s vibrant coastal gateway to Pacific beaches and the Galapagos Islands. Guayaquil is the largest city and chief port of Ecuador, situated on the west bank of the Guayas River. Economically, Guayaquil is the country’s most important city. Shrimp farming is of growing economic importance, as well as bananas, coffee, and cacao.
The bustling city of Guayaquil is known as the “Pearl of the Pacific,” a treasure trove of history, culture, and natural beauty. It is a vibrant and exciting city with a rich heritage.
In the north, Las Peñas is a colorful colonial-style (bohemian) neighborhood full of colorful houses, originally the residence of fishermen and artisans. Ermest Hemingway lived here. Head up Santa Ana hill, climbing 444 steps, through cute little cobbled streets lined with cafes and art galleries. Once you reach the top you are greeted by a well-kept kitsch blue and white lighthouse with amazing views of Rio Guayas and the rest of Guayaquil. At the top of the hill is a cute little chapel. There are still many original cannons on this hill that were used to defend the city many years ago.
Ernest Hemingway once said: “In our darkest moments, we don’t need solutions or advice. What we yearn for is simply human connection — a quiet presence, a gentle touch. These small gestures are the anchors that hold us steady when life feels like too much.” So, on this Christmas Day, remember “the tiniest act of kindness can save a life.” What a gift to give and receive!
Malecon 2000, a lively boardwalk (1.55 miles) overlooking the Guayas River, is well-patrolled day and night, and features small food stands, other eateries, and a blend of historic, modern buildings, with beautiful places to sit and reflect, including a few tropical gardens.
As you wander from one end to the other, you see various monuments, one of which you can stand at either end of the wall and talk to each other as it echoes along the wall. There are many large wooden sails, towers which represent the elements to climb for views, pirate ships, and an exhibition of arty horses. An aesthetically appealing walk along the riverside.
The city is known for its delicious cuisine, with dishes such as ceviche, churrasco, encebollado, and rice with stew.
Guayaquil Historical Park (Parque Historico) is an 8-acre park, commemorating the local urban and city living, the traditions, and architecture between the transition years of the colonization until Ecuador became an independent republic. After gaining independence from the Spanish, the Ecuadorians decided to remove any trace of them, and demolished all the traditional colonial buildings that frequented the area. The city was literally rebuilt from scratch.
The park is divided into three sections, one of which has lots of indigenous animals and plants, including beautiful parrots, sloths, caiman, monkeys, tapir, and crocs — to name a few. You feel like you’re in a jungle. Another section shows a replica of an unfinished doctor’s house. The third part has an urban farm, and an indigenous persons’ house which you can browse. You are shown different areas of the wooden house and told how they used old corncobs as toilet paper! Seemed a bit painful to me!
Parque Seminario has two other names, Parque Bolivar and Parque de las Iguanas, and is a small garden of tropical plants in the middle of the city, made unusual because of its unusual residents. Home to around a hundred iguanas, these guys roam the park, waiting to be fed. Watch out for them hiding in the trees above as they can catch you unawares with a stream of urine!
Other regular residents at the park include a bunch of snapping turtles living in the pond, as well as a flock of hungry pigeons. Avoid bringing food into the park unless you want to be mobbed! You don’t want to miss visiting the rescued giant land tortoises.
In a corner of the Seminario Park is the beautiful Guayaquil Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the few buildings that remain from the colonial era. Although it was originally built in 1547, it was reconstructed in the 20th century in the Gothic style after a fire.
There is a pedestrian bridge connecting Isla Santay to Guayaquil via the area of Durán. You can navigate your own walking or bike tour of the island. The island is home to a crocodile sanctuary, and a multitude of opportunities for bird watching.
Motorcycle police monitored our safety. They were professional, efficient, friendly and there when needed.
At the close of another day,
Unwinding,
Listening to the gentle sound of the waves,
Reflecting on the months gone by,
Accepting,
Giving thanks to each one.
It’s a time of beauty, unity and hope.
The Odyssey sails toward Salavery, Peru.
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I lived in Ecuador full time from 2013 through 2021. Though we still keep our home there, Honolulu is now our current base. I wonder if you got the full report on Ecuador, based on your writing.
First, it is only the coast that is hot and humid. We live in Cuenca, considered the “cultural capital of Ecuador,” with a population around 500,000, sitting at 8500′ elevation. Take San Francisco Spring weather, and that is the year-round weather in Cuenca. Almost never hot, and definitely never humid. (Quito, the capital, sits at 9500′ and is even cooler.)
Second, crime has really driven this country down. When we arrived in 2013, it was considered one of the five safest countries in the world. At the end of 2024, it was considered the sixth Most Dangerous in the world!
Guayaquil has the highest rate of murders in Ecuador, and highest in all of South America. Manta comes in at a close second. This started when Venezuela fell apart under Madura and millions flooded into Ecuador, only to face massive racism (yep, Ecuadorian vs Venezuelan — we Gringos look at both as the same, but they do not). As such, even the most skilled Venezuelans could not find work in Ecuador, leading to skyrocketing panhandling and homelessness. (FWIW, I work with a child-poverty group in Cuenca — it went from 100% Ecuadorian children in 2013 to 94% Venezuelan children in 2024.)
Then the drug cartel moved in. There are no illicit drugs grown in Ecuador, which kept it out of the fight for a long time. However, Ecuador uses the USDollar as currency, which makes it a tempting place to convert other currencies into USD for drugs. They are then loaded on ships in Manta and Guayaquil and shipped North.
Many stories of small fishermen in those towns being forced to ferry drugs Those that refuse are killed at sea, their boats sunk, and their families killed. After that happened a few times, not many refuse today.
The military was brought out in force a year ago to try to regain control, with only pockets of limited success. Just today, it was reported that the Assembly has approved a bill allowing other countries to send in military to help beat back the crime wave.
This was a paradise 12 years ago, when we moved here. Not so much today… 😩
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First, Marty is not trying to give an overview of each country, but rather touch on the highlights each port we visit. She writes about what caught her eye.
Re racism, I can only sigh. I was aware of it in Chile, feeling the bristling between them and Argentinians. Can’t we all just get along? 🙄
Very sad to hear your summary of the problems in Ecuador — I did wonder, and hadn’t yet taken the time to dig into it. Thanks. -rc
Do you have any US Navy veterans on board? I understand that the Navy’s shellback ceremony can be involved… and disgusting.
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So I’ve heard. It’s likely we do have Navy veterans aboard, but when those aboard are paying for the whole operation, the hazing becomes very subdued. The “disgusting” aspect of the ceremony was kissing a dead fish. It came from the galley. -rc
From my understanding, the Navy’s ceremony involved long canvas tubes and brooms. The ship I was on (back in the 60s) traversed all over WESTPAC, but luckily (or unluckily?), we never went to Singapore, so we never crossed the line.
Manta, Ecuador sounds perfect. Have you ever (in your short time on this adventure so far) reached a place and thought it might be a nice to place to live someday?
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Actually, that’s something that Kit and I have done since we met in 1998 wherever we go. Which is to say, we consider whether we might consider “this” place. It’s not like we’re keeping a list, but it’s a fun thought exercise. -rc
I am SO GLAD to hear that even on a cruise ship you scurvy pollywogs were made to undergo proper initiation into Neptune’s Domain and *earn* the title of Shellback. As a Navy Veteran — and Shellback — I will gently say: Kiss a fish? y’all got off easy. LOL
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I certainly assumed that at the time! But did YOUR captain agree to be dunked into seawater while in uniform?! (Yeah, I know: you didn’t have no stinkin’ swimming pool!) -rc
I was USN 68-72 on board USS King DLG-10. Three Westpac cruises, the last included Australia and New Zealand. Yes crossing the equator was nasty, but tempered down according to salts present. Glad I did it.